Which Lens Do I Want?
I agonize over which lenses to buy with my Nikon. The trouble with having so much choice with the Nikon F mount is buyer’s regret. My key purpose for buying a camera was to learn more about modern photography. But the more I learn, the more my current equipment seems less than optimal. I’m sure many amateur photographers feel the same way. The only way to fight this agony of choice is the way we should approach any big purchase: one should look closely at what you want to do with your purchase. The insight comes in the form of a hum drum table.
An Exposure Value table is pretty abstract and not terribly meaningful on its own. An Exposure Value, or EV, of zero is an exposure of one second at an aperture of f/1 and an EV of one is half a second at the same aperture or one second at f/1.4. A table can be constructed from this point on. So what?
Well each EV number corresponds to the lighting conditions a photographer will encounter. A table of these numbers gives the photographer an idea of the constraints of what they photograph and what they need to get an acceptable photograph. I like low light photography so I will keep a close eye on the EV numbers on the top rows of this EV table.
This EV table was constructed for ISO 200, the minimum ISO for my camera, so the EV numbers may not correspond with other tables. I aim for ISO 200 because the colour is deeper and noise is kept to a minimum. By doubling the ISO one can shift the shutter speed one row up or one column to the left. For example, I like using 1/125 of a second at f/1.8 for concerts with a nice rich ISO 200. But if the lens I have only goes to f/2.8 I could step up the ISO to 800. The image quality at ISO 800 is acceptable to me, so is not a big deal. However, if the lens has a maximum aperture of f/5.6 the ISO is going to be so high the image will be obscured by the multi-coloured flecks known as noise. Slowing the exposure is not an option because the musicians are always in motion and will be unacceptably blurred. Rather than slowing the shutter speed, chances are you may need to speed it up, if the musicians are really active.
The EV table also gives you an idea of where to set the aperture and the minimum speed for the ISO. Setting the auto ISO gives you a bottom speed before the shaking of your hands blurs the photo or before unwanted motion blur enters the photo. Fixing the aperture sets the depth of field you want, or can live with, while keeping the ISO as low as is possible. If the lighting is not marginal, you can set the aperture to get a deep focal range or to get the peak performance from that particular lens.
I have not entered apertures below f/1.4 because they are rare nor above f/11 because it should provide sufficient depth of field and any further restriction of light should be done with a neutral density filter as smaller apertures cause diffraction. If you want to calculate smaller apertures it is not difficult to calculate it yourself. The table has no shutter speeds above 1/4000 because that is as quick as my camera goes.
Each EV number corresponds to lighting situations a photographer may encounter. This list is not comprehensive, but everyone should recognize the kind of situations that appeals most to them.
- EV 5
-Floodlit Architecture
-Christmas lights
- EV6
-Vehicle lights at night
-Home interiors
- EV7
-City streets at night
- EV8
-Amusement parks and fairs
-Stage lighting for live performances
-Utility lighting for offices and manufacturing interiors
- EV9
-Brightly lit city square at night
-Store displays at night
- EV10
-Sun just below horizon
-Neon or illuminated signs
-Sports venue at night
-Fire
- EV11
-Sun at horizon
- EV12
-Sun just above horizon
- EV13
-Heavily overcast day
-Subject in the shadows on a bright day
- EV14
-Cloudy but full daylight
- EV15
-Bright cloud in background
-Sunny, but with soft shadows due to haze
- EV16
-Bright sun with sharp shadows
- EV17
-Snow in bright sunlight
-Open water with bright sunlight
The following table can be cut right down the middle dividing fast lenses, which are mostly prime lenses, from the slow lenses, which are mostly zoom lenses. The difference in performance difference is less distinct with Nikon’s VR (vibration reduction) or Canon’s IS (image stabilization). With this clever bit of technology, the choice between a fast prime and a slow zoom has become much more subtle. It really depends on how you feel about motion blur in moving subjects. If you’re OK with it, then VR can make an f/5.6 lens a better choice in low light conditions than an f/2 lens. VR can free you of the need for a tripod or a monopod except in the most extreme lighting conditions. Most of the time I find a tripod or monopod slows me down and being rid of it is liberating.
Zoom lenses all tend to be slower between f/5.6 and f/3.5, unless you willing to part with a few grand to get you to a maximum of f/2.8. Prime lenses are consistently faster, between f/1.2 and f/2.8 and cost between $100 and $800.
This table also shows that zooms are much handier if you expect to be photographing in daylight. Changing lenses is never convenient and you risk missing the moment. However when the sun is below the horizon, a fast prime lens is much better at capturing the drama of people. I love going to the fair at sundown with just my 35mm f/1.8 lens. A flash can help some, but too much flash can leave people looking flat and washed out. The only time I use a flash at full power is during the day to fill out harsh shadows.
The table also gives us a pattern for how much VR really can help us out in lower light conditions where slower shutter speeds would be welcome. Still, under certain conditions even VR is not sufficient, like when taking telephoto shots in low light or when you have to use a smaller aperture. Also zoom lenses generally perform at their best at f/8 so a tripod is still worth having. We can see that VR and a tripod occupy their space within these tables at lower speeds. Even with VR, telephoto shots still require faster speeds than wide angle shots, but the speed is lowered by a factor of eight or by three stops. You can often squeeze in one more stop, for a total of four stops, by bracing the camera or by calmly taking several steady shots until you get lucky.
Red shutter speeds are within the ability of lenses without VR, so no tripod required
Pink shutter speeds require a tripod for telephoto shots*
Orange shutter speeds require a tripod or VR for telephoto shots
Green shutter speeds either requires a tripod for telephoto shots, even with VR, or just VR at wider angles, or a tripod if no VR is available.
Blue shutter speeds require a tripod in all cases.
| EV |
f-number |
| Fast Primes |
Slow Zooms |
|
1.4 |
2.0 |
2.8 |
4.0 |
5.6 |
8.0 |
11 |
| 5 |
1/30 |
1/15 |
1/8 |
1/4 |
1/2 |
1 |
2 |
| 6 |
1/60 |
1/30 |
1/15 |
1/8 |
1/4 |
1/2 |
1 |
| 7 |
1/125 |
1/60 |
1/30 |
1/15 |
1/8 |
1/4 |
1/2 |
| 8 |
1/250 |
1/125 |
1/60 |
1/30 |
1/15 |
1/8 |
1/4 |
| 9 |
1/500 |
1/250 |
1/125 |
1/60 |
1/30 |
1/15 |
1/8 |
| 10 |
1/1000 |
1/500 |
1/250 |
1/125 |
1/60 |
1/30 |
1/15 |
| 11 |
1/2000 |
1/1000 |
1/500 |
1/250 |
1/125 |
1/60 |
1/30 |
| 12 |
1/4000 |
1/2000 |
1/1000 |
1/500 |
1/250 |
1/125 |
1/60 |
| 13 |
|
1/4000 |
1/2000 |
1/1000 |
1/500 |
1/250 |
1/125 |
| 14 |
|
|
1/4000 |
1/2000 |
1/1000 |
1/500 |
1/250 |
| 15 |
|
|
|
1/4000 |
1/2000 |
1/1000 |
1/500 |
| 16 |
|
|
|
|
1/4000 |
1/2000 |
1/1000 |
| 17 |
|
|
|
|
|
1/4000 |
1/2000 |
| EV |
1.4 |
2.0 |
2.8 |
4.0 |
5.6 |
8.0 |
11 |
| f-number |
*VR is not available for fast prime lenses and telephotos are not made any faster than f/2. I disregarded telephotos or zooms that come in f/2.8 as they are beyond the reach of most people. I also limited telephotos to 200mm as this is the most common length. Every increase in the length of the lens requires a similar increase in shutter speed.